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Numerical Analysis of Nonlinear Shoaling Process of Random Waves - Centered on the Evolution of Wave Height Distribution at the Varying Stages of Shoaling Process
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불규칙 파랑 비선형 천수 과정 수치해석 - 천수 단계별 파고분포 변화를 중심으로

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Type
Academic journal
Author
Yong Hee Kim (서울시립대학교) Yong Jun Cho (서울시립대학교)
Journal
Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Vol.32 No.2 KCI Accredited Journals
Published
2020.4
Pages
106 - 121 (16page)

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Numerical Analysis of Nonlinear Shoaling Process of Random Waves - Centered on the Evolution of Wave Height Distribution at the Varying Stages of Shoaling Process
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Research history (2)

2021

Numerical Analysis of Nonlinear Shoaling Process of Random Waves ? Centered on the Evolution of Wave Height Distribution at Varying Stages of Shoaling Process -
김용희 토목공학과 2021.01 Thesis

2020

Numerical Analysis of Nonlinear Shoaling Process of Random Waves - Centered on the Evolution of Wave Height Distribution at the Varying Stages of Shoaling Process
Yong Hee Kim ,  Yong Jun Cho Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers 2020.04 Academic journal
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Abstract· Keywords

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In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.
#천해역 파고분포 #증강계수 #JONSWAP 스펙트럼 #수정 Glukhovskiy 파고분포 #LES[Large Eddy Simulation] #spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq. #one equation dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure #wave height distribution at finite water depth #peak enhancement coefficient #JONSWAP spectrum #Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution

Contents

요지
Abstract
1. 서론
2. 파고분포
3. 수치모형
4. 수치 모의
5. 수치 결과
6. 결론
References

References (25)

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Battjes, J. A. / 1986 / Energy dissipation in breaking solitary and periodic waves google schola Battjes, J. A. / 2000 / Wave height distributions on shallow fore-shores / Coastal Engineering 40:161~182 google schola 장병상 / 2019 / 해역별 최적 해빈 안정화 공법 선정 Platform 개발을 위한 기초연구 III 단위 관측 기간에 발생하는 불규칙 파랑과 구속모드의 외중력파, 경계층 Streaming이 횡단표사에 미치는 영향을 중심으로 / 한국해안·해양공학회논문집 31(6):434~449 dbpia 조용준 / 2020 / LES와 One Equation Dynamic Smagorinsky 난류모형을 이용한 Beach Cusps 쇄파역에서의 경계층 Streaming 수치해석 / 한국해안·해양공학회논문집 32(1):55~68 Crossref 조용준 / 2020 / LES와 Dynamic Smagorinsky 난류모형을 이용한 쇄파역에서의 경계층 Streaming 수치해석 / 한국해안·해양공학회논문집 32(1):69~84 dbpia

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