3D 프린팅을 활용한 하프스케일 드레스폼 개발 :Development of Half-scale Dress Form using 3D Printing

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자료유형: 학위논문

저자정보: 이예리 (부산대학교, 부산대학교 대학원)

지도교수: 장정아

발행연도: 2022

저작권: 부산대학교 논문은 저작권에 의해 보호받습니다.

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이 논문의 연구 히스토리 (2)

2022

3D 프린팅을 활용한 하프스케일 드레스폼 개발

이예리 의류학과 2022.01 학위논문

2020

3D 아바타를 이용한 드레이핑용 1/2 드레스폼 개발

이예리 한국의류산업학회지 2020.01 학술저널

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본 연구에서는 3D 프린팅을 활용한 하프스케일 드레이핑용 드레스폼을 개발하기 위하여 먼저 시판중인 하프스케일 드레스폼의 생산실태를 조사하고, CLO 3D 아바타를 이용하여 드레스폼을 모델링하기 위해, 제 7차 사이즈코리아 20~24세 여성 평균치수를 적용한 3D 아바타를 모델링 소프트웨어 Bleder 2.9v를 활용하여 부위별 신체 각도항목을 반영한 토르소형과 토르소 크로치 형의 드레스폼 형태로 모델링한 후 3D 프린터를 활용하여 드레스폼 형태로 출력하였다. 출력물에 드레이핑이 가능하도록 퀼팅솜과 광목을 이용한 외부커버를 씌워 드레스폼을 완성하였으며, 상반신의 형태에 토르소형과 토르소 크로치형의 하반신을 교체해서 사용 가능한 하프스케일 드레이핑용 드레스폼을 개발하였다. 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다.
첫째, 국내 하프스케일 드레스폼 제품 생산 실태 조사 결과, 제품 치수의 경우 국내에서 생산 되고 있는 4가지 제품 모두 제 7차 사이즈코리아 치수와 비교해 허리둘레의 치수가 작게 생산 되고 있는 것을 알 수 있었다. 둘레의 부위별 편평률을 살펴본 결과 K-1, K-2 제품이 다른 드레스폼과 제 7차 사이즈코리아 자료에 비해 가슴둘레, 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레의 편평률이 낮게 나타났다. 따라서 드레스폼 개발 시 허리둘레 치수와 둘레별(가슴, 허리, 엉덩이) 편평률을 고려 해야 함을 알 수 있었다.
둘째, 3D 아바타의 형태를 이용한 드레스폼을 모델링하기 위하여 제 6차 사이즈코리아 20대 성인여성 치수를 이용하여 제작한 3D 아바타와 제 6차 사이즈코리아 형태 차이를 비교해 본결과, 3D 아바타가 사이즈코리아 인체형상에 비해 체형에 따른 등과 가슴의 돌출량이 반영되지 않고 곧은 체형으로 생성되는 것을 알 수 있었다. 따라서 3D 아바타를 활용한 드레스폼 형태 모델링 작업 시, 각 신체 부위별 각도항목을 고려하여야 하며, 특히 등과 가슴 부위의 각도를 반영하여 개발하여야 함을 알 수 있었다.
셋째, 하프스케일 드레이핑용 드레스폼을 제작하기 위해, 사이즈코리아에 제시된 20~24세 여성 평균치수를 CLO 3D 아바타에 적용하여 드레스폼 모델링에 활용하였다. 최종 드레스폼의 모델링은 치수 설정에 있어 20~24세 여성 평균치수의 둘레, 길이항목 뿐만 아니라 표준인체의 각도항목과 드레스폼 외부커버의 두께를 고려하여 완성하였다. 완성된 모델링의 치수는 가슴둘레 42.0cm, 허리둘레 33.3cm, 엉덩이둘레 44.1cm이다. 또한 드레스폼의 상반신에 하반신 형태를 교체해서 사용할 수 있도록 허리선 기준으로 분리하여 제작하였으며, 드레스폼 하단부에 발판봉을 연결하여 높낮이 조절이 가능하도록 발판 연결부를 모델링하여 드레스폼 및 부속 모델링을 완성하였다. 드레스폼을 제작하기 위해 완성된 모델링 파일을 PLA 필라멘트 소재를 이용하여 3D 프린터로 출력하고, 드레이핑이 가능한 드레스폼을 제작하기 위해 외부커버를 제작 하였으며, 3온스 퀼팅솜과 30수 광목을 패턴에 맞게 씌워 마감하였다. 이후 발판봉 연결부를 고정하여 완성하였다. 완성된 하프스케일 드레스폼 상반신의 치수는 가슴둘레 43.0cm, 허리둘레 34.4cm, 등길이 19.6cm 이며, 토르소형의 엉덩이둘레는 45.5cm, 토르소 크로치형의 엉덩 이둘레는 46.4cm이다. 추가적으로 완성된 드레스폼 치수의 최대높이는 81.5cm, 최소높이는 토르소형 61.0cm, 토르소 크로치형 64.0cm이다.
넷째, 개발한 하프스케일 드레이핑용 드레스폼의 적합성을 평가하기 위해 제 7차 사이즈코리아 20~24세 여성 평균의 1/2 치수와 개발 드레스폼과 비교 드레스폼(국내에서 생산되고 있는 하프스케일 드레스폼 4종)의 직접치수를 분석하였다. 개발 드레스폼은 엉덩이옆길이, 젖가슴둘 레, 허리둘레, 엉덩이둘레, 허리두께, 엉덩이두께, 허리너비, 엉덩이너비 항목에서 사이즈코리아 자료와 비교하여 최소 차이를 나타내었다. 개발 드레스폼과 비교 드레스폼 4종의 수평 단면형 상을 사이즈코리아 20대 표준 인체 형상과 중합하여 분석한 결과, 개발 드레스폼과 K-4의 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레 단면형상은 비교적 표준인체형상의 둘레 편평률과 유사한 형태로 제작되 었으며, K-1, K-2, K-3의 허리둘레와 엉덩이둘레 단면 형태는 표준인체형상에 비해 원형에 가까운 것으로 나타났다. 개발 드레스폼과 비교 드레스폼 4종에 대한 전문가 패널단 평가 결과, 개발 드레스폼은 ‘ 드레스폼의 형태가 적당한가?’, ‘''드레스폼의 패딩이 적당한가?'', ''핀이 원하는 방향으로 잘 고정되는가?'', ''드레이핑 시 옷감이 미끄러지지 않고 잘 고정되는가?'' 항목 에서 높은 점수를 나타내었으며, 개발 드레스폼의 제작방식이 비교 드레스폼과는 달리 단단한 내부 소재 위에 핀 사용이 수월 하도록 솜과 광목을 이용한 외부커버를 입히는 방식으로 제작 되어 위와 같은 결과를 나타낸 것으로 사료된다.

This study purposed to develop a half-scale dress form for draping, utilizing a 3D printer after investigating the status of the production of half scale dress forms, placed on the market. In order to modeling the dress form, 3D avatar, utilizing the average body size of women aged 20-24 in the seventh Size Korea, modeled the dress form in torso and torso crotch types, utilizing modeling software Bleder 2.9v, and printed it in the dress form by a 3D printer. An external cover using quilting cotton and cotton cloth applied to the dress form for draping. In addition, a half-scale dress form for draping was produced, in which the lower body in torso and torso crotch types could be used as a convertible replacement for the upper body form. The results of the study are summarized as follows.
First, as a result of the investigation of the status of the domestic production of a half-scale dress form. The measurements of waist circumference of all four products produced in Korea were smaller compared to the seventh Size Korea measurements for the measurements of products. As a result of the examination of the flatness of each circumference region, products K-1 and K-2 had smaller flatness of chest circumference, waist circumference, and hip circumference than other dress forms and the seventh Size Korea data. Thus, it was noted that it would be necessary to consider waist circumference and flatness by circumference (chest, waist, and hip) in developing a dress form.
Second, as a result of the comparison of the differences in the shape between 3D Avatar and the sixth Size Korea human body shape to model a dress form, using the shape of 3D Avatar, it was found that 3D Avatar was formed as a straight body type, without reflecting the protrusion of the back and chest according to the body type by age group compared to Size Korea human body shape. Thus, it was noted that it would be necessary to check the item of angle by each body part in the dress form-shaped modeling work, utilizing the 3D avatar and to develop it, especially, reflecting the angles of the back and chest regions.
Third, the average body size of a woman aged 20-24, presented in Size Korea, was applied to CLO 3D Avatar to utilize in modeling the dress form to produce a half-scale dress form for draping. The final modeling of the dress form was completed by considering not only the average body size and length of a woman in her 20-24 ± standard deviation but also the item of the angle and the circumferences before and after covering an external cover of the dress form for a size set-up. In the measurements of the completed modeling, chest circumference is 42.0cm; waist circumference, 33.3cm; and hip circumference, 44.1cm. In addition, a cylindrical joint part was produced at the center by separating it from the waistline for the lower body form could be used alternatively in the upper body. By connecting the pedal bar to the lower part of the dress form, a column-shaped passageway was made on the trunk so that the height could be adjusted.
The finished modeling file was printed with a 3D printer, using a PLA filament material, and to produce the dress form for draping, the external cover was produced with 3oz quilting cotton and 30-count cotton cloth in the form of the pattern. In the measurements of the finished half-scale dress form, chest circumference is 43.0cm; waist circumference, 34.4cm; back length, 19.6cm and hip circumference, 45.5cm, and hip circumference is 46.4cm in the measurements of the torso crotch type dress form. The maximum length is 81.0cm for the completed dress form and minimum length is 60.5cm for torso type;
63.5cm for torso crotch.
Fourth, to evaluate the fitness of the developed dress form for half-scale draping, the average 1/2 measurements of women in their 20-24 from the seventh Size Korea and the direct measurements of the developed dress form and the comparable dress forms (four types of half-scale dress form produced in Korea) were analyzed. The developed dress form had the minimum differences in the items, including the waist to hip length, bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, waist depth, hip depth, waist breadth, and hip width, compared to the data of Size Korea. As a result of thecomprehensive analysis of the horizontal section shape of the developed dress form and the four comparable dress forms with the standard body shape of women in their 20s of Size Korea, it turned out as for the waist circumference and hip circumference section shape, the developed dress form and K-4 were produced in relatively similar forms with the flatness of circumference of the standard body shape. In addition, the waist circumference and hip circumference section shape of K-1, K-2, and K-3 were close to the circular shape compared to the standard body shape. As a result of the evaluation by the expert panel of the developed dress form and the four comparable dress forms, the developed dress form had high scores for the questions such as “Is the shape of the dress form appropriate?”, “Is the padding of the dress form appropriate?”, “Is the pin fixed well on the desired direction?” and “Is the cloth well fixed without slipping in the draping?”. It is judged that the result was as above because as for the method for producing the developed dress form, it was produced, unlike the comparable dress forms, in which an external cover using cotton and cotton cloth was put on a hard interior material for easy use of the pin.

Ⅰ. 서론 ·········································································································· 1
1. 연구의 필요성 및 목적 ········································································································ 1
2. 연구의 내용 ···························································································································· 4
3. 연구 구성도 ···························································································································· 6
Ⅱ. 이론적 배경 ······················································································································· 7
1. 드레스폼의 종류 및 특징 ···································································································· 7
2. 국내·외 드레이핑용 드레스폼 생산현황 ········································································· 12
1) 드레스폼 제품형태 ············································································································ 12
2) 드레스폼 소재 ···················································································································· 17
3) 드레스폼 치수분포 ············································································································ 18
3. 드레스폼 개발에 관한 선행연구 ······················································································ 20
4. 패션산업에서의 3D 기술 ··································································································· 24
1) 패션산업에서의 3D 프린팅 기술 ··················································································· 24
2) 패션산업에서의 3D 아바타 활용 ··················································································· 36
Ⅲ. 연구방법 및 절차 ···································································································· 40
1. 국내·외 하프스케일 드레스폼 제품 생산실태 조사 ····················································· 40
1) 조사대상 및 기간 ·············································································································· 40
2) 조사내용 및 방법 ·············································································································· 40
2. 드레스폼 모델링을 위한 3D 아바타와 사이즈코리아 인체형상 형태 비교 ··········· 41
1) 측정대상 및 측정항목 ······································································································ 41
2) 측정방법 ······························································································································ 41
3. 3D 프린팅을 활용한 하프스케일 드레스폼 제작 ························································· 43
1) 드레스폼 형태 모델링 ······································································································ 43
2) 드레스폼 연결부 모델링 ·································································································· 47
3) 드레스폼 몰드 모델링 ······································································································ 49
4) 드레스폼 내부 소재 선정 ································································································ 50
5) 드레스폼 형태 3D 프린팅 ······························································································· 51
6) 드레스폼 제작 ···················································································································· 54
4. 하프스케일 드레스폼 적합성 평가 ···················································································· 57
1) 직접치수 및 단면중합도 분석 ························································································ 57
2) 전문가 패널단 평가 ·········································································································· 59
Ⅳ. 연구결과 및 고찰 ········································································································ 60
1. 국내·외 하프스케일 드레스폼 생산실태 ··········································································· 60
1) 제품 치수 ···························································································································· 60
2) 제품 형태 ···························································································································· 63
2. 드레스폼 모델링을 위한 3D 아바타와 사이즈코리아 인체형상 형태차이 비교 ····· 65
1) 치수 비교 ···························································································································· 65
2) 형태 비교 ···························································································································· 66
3. 3D 프린팅을 활용한 하프스케일 드레스폼 개발 ··························································· 70
1) 드레스폼 형태 모델링 ······································································································ 70
2) 드레스폼 연결부 모델링 ·································································································· 73
3) 드레스폼 내부 소재 선정 ································································································ 76
4) 드레스폼 형태 3D 프린팅 ······························································································· 79
5) 드레스폼 제작 ···················································································································· 84
4. 하프스케일 드레스폼 적합성 평가 ···················································································· 90
1) 직접치수 및 단면중합도 분석 ························································································ 90
2) 전문가 패널단 평가 ·········································································································· 97
Ⅴ. 결론 및 제언 ·················································································································· 99
1. 요약 및 결론 ························································································································ 99
2. 연구의 제언점 및 기대효과 ···························································································· 102
참고문헌 ··································································································································· 103
Abstract ···································································································································· 113

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