Ancient Koreans, residing in every part of Korean peninsula and Man-ju, wore byon , chek and Julpung since Kojosun period. Julpung, a transformed version of byon, fell into two types ; one with round upper part, and the other with pointed upper part . Of the two kinds, the former called Julpung, has two types of structures. In Koguryo, Julpung was commonly made of leather, whereas in Shilla and Kaya the bark of white birch was also used. Given that all people in every part of Koguryo, Dongbooyu, backjae, Shilla put Saegit on their Julpung, this tradition of ancient Koreans is thought to have been in existence since Kojusun period. As time passed by, ruling classes came to gold, silver or an alloy of gold and copper to make their Sagit and deer ornaments.
Chek found in Koguryo has no su while Chinese ones has it. Chek in China is found to have first come to existence in Han dynasty. Chek is not the transformed version of hat, but of the headcover which general in ancient times used to wear. Accordingly, the su was naturally passed on to Chinese 巾. On the other hand, Korean chek originated from byon which had no gun and had been in use since Kojosun period. This is why Korean gun did not have su.
Married women in Koguryo wore gungeyok on their heads regardless of age, and men from lower class dressed themselves with black 巾. Men from upper class wore golso made of silk, which were decorated with gold and silver. The king of Koguryo wore hat made of white silk, with gold buttons or lines of gold threads on it. Officials of Koguryo had gold or silver buttons or gold thread lines on their clothes for decoration. The king of Backjae had his crown decorated with silk hat and gold flower while officials used silver flower. The picture of crown adorned with gold thread lines is actually seen in the mural in Anak gobun, where the main character wears white silk hat.
In Kojosun, since 25 century,B.C such highly developed, sophisticated form of clothing decoration is found as round or heart shaped decorating buttons on garments, shoes, hats, armor, or used as earings as themselves. Such form of garment decoration is unique of Koreans, which is not found in China and Northern area. Since its birth, the use of decorating buttons in clothing became widespread. In many excavation sites in liaoningsung, it has been verified by an array of relics that Koguryo people used branch shaped gold hat ornament. Gold hat ornament are characterized by their common shape which has branches like a tree and round or heart decorations on each tip of the branch. This character is later passed on to the crowns of Shilla. the piece gold composing the branches of the crown, found with the piece of copper, hat ornament of branch found with the relics of middle and late Kojosun times, and branch shaped gold hat ornamentall are assumed to have been applied to the branch part of later crowns.
As shown above, the characteristics of crowns in Koguryo, Shilla, Baekjae were not formed by the influence of foreign cultures. The transformation of the common byon, Julpung and chek which their ancestors had widely used, singular style of Koreans clothing decoration, heart shaped decorating buttons, and branch like decorations are what combined together to materialize the expression of the beauty concept of Koreans.