지원사업
학술연구/단체지원/교육 등 연구자 활동을 지속하도록 DBpia가 지원하고 있어요.
커뮤니티
연구자들이 자신의 연구와 전문성을 널리 알리고, 새로운 협력의 기회를 만들 수 있는 네트워킹 공간이에요.
초록· 키워드
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Andongpo, which is a native product in Andong, came to the fore as a hemp cloth good in quality late in the 19th century and was related with the life style and sense of values of Andong people. Until the 1960's, traditionally the hemp cloth produced in Andong had been largely classified into Saengnaengi and Iknaengi. The one is the hemp cloth to be weaved without boiling a hemp in lye, but the other is the hemp cloth to be weaved after boiling a hemp in lye. Andongpo is limited to the one only, and can be produced through delicate and elaborate processes. How to weave Saengnaengi became widespread in and around Andong only. While Iknaengi was the stuff used to make an everyday dress during the summer season, Saengnaengi was the stuff used to produce a formal dress for the funeral rites and the ancestor-memorial ceremonies and a street dress during the summer season. Also while Iknaengi was a popular and ordinary cloth for the common people, Saengnaengi was a high-quality cloth for the aristocratic class of Yangban. Indeed, compared with another cloth, we can say that Andongpo was a meaningful cloth which had a Confucian cultural color greatly.
As textile and apparel industry made a rapid growth in the 1960's, the production of hemp cloth fell into a decline all over the country. Also the production of hemp cloth was suspended in most of villages in Andong. As the scarcity and exchange value of the hemp cloth was increasing after the 1970's, a new tradition that produces the hemp cloth was recreated in Andong. A few villagers in Andong and its neighboring villagers, who had produced the hemp cloth thrivingly in the past, began to produce Saengnaengi(Andongpo) regarded as the high-quality cloth. From that time, the method that purchases some hemp and weaves it was generalized in most villages except one or two. This was selectively to recreate the tradition of producing the hemp cloth according to the change of social and economic condition. From the end of the 1980's, highly cheap Chinese hemp cloth was imported in the domestic market, and was competing Andongpo. Facing a serious crisis, producers of Andongpo were strengthening its competitiveness in quality by guaranteeing the legitimacy of 'an authentic Andongpo'.
Today AndongPo which women weaves delicately with their utmost sincerity is on the rise as a medium of expressing the traditional culture and identity of Andong. When one put on hempen clothes in all parts of the country, Andongpo had the meaning of a good hemp cloth at best. As the development of textile and apparel industry made the scarcity value of hemp cloth increase, the value and meaning of Andongpo was renewed. Especially recognized as the best quality by many strangers, Andongpo got to represent the meaning of a living traditional inheritance through Yangban and Sunbi culture, Confucian funeral rites and ancestor-memorial ceremonies, and articles essential to a wedding ceremony.
As textile and apparel industry made a rapid growth in the 1960's, the production of hemp cloth fell into a decline all over the country. Also the production of hemp cloth was suspended in most of villages in Andong. As the scarcity and exchange value of the hemp cloth was increasing after the 1970's, a new tradition that produces the hemp cloth was recreated in Andong. A few villagers in Andong and its neighboring villagers, who had produced the hemp cloth thrivingly in the past, began to produce Saengnaengi(Andongpo) regarded as the high-quality cloth. From that time, the method that purchases some hemp and weaves it was generalized in most villages except one or two. This was selectively to recreate the tradition of producing the hemp cloth according to the change of social and economic condition. From the end of the 1980's, highly cheap Chinese hemp cloth was imported in the domestic market, and was competing Andongpo. Facing a serious crisis, producers of Andongpo were strengthening its competitiveness in quality by guaranteeing the legitimacy of 'an authentic Andongpo'.
Today AndongPo which women weaves delicately with their utmost sincerity is on the rise as a medium of expressing the traditional culture and identity of Andong. When one put on hempen clothes in all parts of the country, Andongpo had the meaning of a good hemp cloth at best. As the development of textile and apparel industry made the scarcity value of hemp cloth increase, the value and meaning of Andongpo was renewed. Especially recognized as the best quality by many strangers, Andongpo got to represent the meaning of a living traditional inheritance through Yangban and Sunbi culture, Confucian funeral rites and ancestor-memorial ceremonies, and articles essential to a wedding ceremony.
목차
Ⅰ. 머리말
Ⅱ. 전통적 안동포의 독특한 직조법과 의미
Ⅲ. 산업화와 안동포 생산전통의 재창조
Ⅳ. 오늘날 안동포 소비의 양상과 의미
Ⅴ. 맺음말
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