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'Chinese' Designs of Chinese Fashion Designers by Generation
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세대별 중국 패션 디자이너의 '중국적' 디자인

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Type
Academic journal
Author
Meina Yin (서울대학교 의류학과) Ha Jisoo (서울대학교)
Journal
The Korea Society Of Fashion Design 한국패션디자인학회지 한국패션디자인학회지 제23권 제1호 KCI Accredited Journals
Published
2023.3
Pages
141 - 163 (23page)

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'Chinese' Designs of Chinese Fashion Designers by Generation
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The study analyzed the Chinese fashion designs by generation to understand Chinese design and modernization of Chinese culture. The significance of this study is to enhance academic understanding of the application of Chinese elements and to provide basic data on fashion design methods to help prolong the "Chinese style" trend. Chinese designers who presented Chinese designs have been classified into three generations, the 1980s to the 1990s, the mid-1990s to the early 2000s, and the 2000s to the 2020s. The findings are as follows. Chinese designers were commonly considered to have been voluntarily inheriting and taken pride of traditional cultural value based on Chinese identity. Even so, the first-generation used symbolic expressions to emphasize tradition and ethnicity of China and specifically it was showed as ‘direct application of tangible elements within a limited range’ with repeated applications of various common traditional elements. The second-generation focused on the spiritual perception based on the ancient Chinese philosophy and used implicit expressions through intangibility. It was showed as the simple and implicit shape, ‘Suse’ like low-saturation and achromatic colors, natural fabrics and traditional handcraft techniques filled with the spirit of diligence. The third-generation put emphasis on the modern convergence which focused on diversification with ‘succession and transformation’. They focused on the diversified perception of tradition and modernity as well as transformations of West fashion with Chinese features. Accordingly they generated the most diverse elements in terms of concept, color combination, materials with sustainability and combined modern technology with traditional techniques in a trendy way. Chinese designs of Chinese fashion designers are presented differently based on the different perceptions about nationalization and globalization essentially, meanwhile Chinese design is evolving into the complex way of coexistence and symbiosis by combining the advantages of Chinese and global taste.

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