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An Investigation into the Evolution of Jeogui (翟衣) Forms in Chinese History -Tracing the Transformation from Simui (深衣) to Tongjae(通裁)-
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중국 역대 적의(翟衣) 형태 연구 -심의형(深衣型)에서 통재형(通裁型)으로의 변화를 중심으로-

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Type
Academic journal
Author
Journal
Society of Korean Traditional Costume Journal of Korean Traditional Costume Vol.26 No.4 KCI Accredited Journals
Published
2023.12
Pages
133 - 155 (23page)
DOI
10.16885/jktc.2023.12.26.4.133

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An Investigation into the Evolution of Jeogui (翟衣) Forms in Chinese History -Tracing the Transformation from Simui (深衣) to Tongjae(通裁)-
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This study delves into the form of Jeogui(翟衣), a ceremonial garment worn by imperial women throughout China. The Jeogui, an imperial women"s robe adorned with pheasant patterns, traces its origins to the ancient Chinese text, 『Zhouli (周禮)』. Beginning with the Northern and Southern Dynasties, when 『Zhouli』 reorganized the imperial official uniform system, Jeogui emerged as the most prestigious imperial attire in China, enduring until the Ming Dynasty. In the 『Zhouli』 「Neisifu(內司服)」 note, Zhengxuan(鄭玄) elaborated on the six clothing types within the Simui(深衣), where Ui(衣) and Sang(裳) are interconnected. However, the flat sketch of Empress Ming"s Hwiui(褘衣), included in 『Mingjili(明集禮)』 「Guanfutu(冠服圖)」 compiled in 1370, exhibited a Tongjae(通裁) form, with no distinction between top and bottom. This form was adopted for Jeogui during the late Goryeo and Korean Empire periods. Therefore, to fully comprehend the origins of clothing forms in both Korea and China, it is crucial to determine when imperial women"s formal attire transitioned to this particular form. This study meticulously organizes and analyzes the scriptures and annotations of the 『Zhouli』「Neisif u」, tracing the evolution of Jeogui"s form through the lens of the Chinese imperial family"s female official uniform system, along with relevant excavated artifacts, paintings, and flat sketches. Zhengxuan employed Han dynasty curved clothing to conceptualize Simui. These curved garments gradually transformed into highly ornate Gyuui(袿衣), becoming the attire of imperial women during the Later Han and Southern Dynasties. As the form of Simui clothing transitioned to Tongjae, beginning between the Sui and the Tang Dynasty, the possibility of Sang(裳)"s incorporation into imperial women"s formal attire emerged. The Jin(金) dynasty system provided concrete evidence regarding the specific details of Sang(裳) worn with Hwiui.
#Gyuui(규의) #Jeogui(적의) #Sang(상) #Simui(심의) #Tongjae(통재)

Contents

ABSTRACT
Ⅰ. 서론
Ⅱ. 『주례(周禮)』 「내사복(內司服)」에 나타난 육복 제도 및 형태
Ⅲ. 후한(後漢)∼남조(南朝) 황실 여자 복식 제도 및 예복 형태
Ⅳ. 북조(北朝)∼명(明) 황실 여자 복식 제도및 예복 형태
Ⅴ. 결론
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